The wild and untamed west coast of Vancouver Island awaits in Zeballos. From thrilling salmon fishing expeditions to exhilarating kayaking journeys, this secluded destination is quickly becoming an eco-tourism hotspot known as the Golden Gate to the West Coast. It might be BC’s smallest village, but Zeballos provides easy access to Catala and Nuchatlitz Provincial Parks, as well as the captivating islands within Kyuquot Sound. The rugged coastline here is full of hidden inlets, surrounded by magnificent stands of Sitka spruce.
Nestled at the head of the Zeballos inlet, Zeballos also has a fascinating geological history that makes it a haven for rock-climbing and caving for all skill levels. Here’s how to spend three days exploring this fascinating village and surroundings.
Day to Day
Creature Comforts
Though only about 100 people live in Zeballos, a handful of accommodation options in the village offer comfort for all types of travellers. Some campsites cater to RVs and others to tent camping and four friendly inns and lodges welcome guests from all over the world.
Day One
Road Trip
Hit the grocery store in Campbell River to grab provisions for your road trip and North Island adventure. Make sure you have a map or GPS because you won’t get a lot of cell phone service where you’re headed. Break up your two and a half hour drive from Campbell River to Zeballos with a stop at Little Huson Park, which isn’t far off Highway 19.
Here, you’ll be able to experience an amazing landscape of easily accessible caves with minimal hiking required. While there’s plenty here for experienced spelunkers, no experience is required to follow the boardwalks and paths to the caves. Make sure to make time for the Vanishing River Cave and External Fountain Cave. Bring a swimsuit if the weather and water conditions allow for a swim.
Golden Gateway
Continue onward to Zeballos, remembering that the only road to town is the unpaved logging road. You’ll arrive just in time to get settled into your accommodation and fix up some dinner.
Day Two
Get Paddling
Pack up a hearty lunch because today you’re setting out on a kayaking journey like no other. If you don’t have your own kayak, rentals are available at Zeballos Expeditions. They recommend you bring a VHF radio, a compass and charts, plus safety and emergency gear like a mirror or signalling flares. Also remember to pack for plenty of weather situations.
For those looking to get further afield, Zeballos Expeditions also offers water taxi service and kayak shuttles to many outlying areas and Provincial Parks. Reservations are recommended.
Relax
Back in Zeballos, treat yourself to dinner at Cedars Inn as you toast to the adventures of the day.
Day Three
Gone Fishing
Today, the avid fishers of your group might opt to head out to the Pacific via a 45-minute boat journey to the entrance to the Esperanza Inlet. This area is famous for salmon and halibut fishing after all. But if you’re looking for something a little different, there are plenty of ways to still indulge in a bit of fishing.
In the spring, you don’t have to go far to conquer some spring prawns or Dungeness crab: there are plenty right at the village waterfront.
If shellfish aren’t your thing, fly fishing is epic along the Zellabos and Kaouk Rivers. Here, there are amazing runs of steelhead, cut-throat, and rainbow trout. In fact, some of the small lakes on the way into town have been known to provide anglers with five pound cut-throats.
Remember your fishing license! If you forgot to grab one in advance, check in with Cedar Inn where you can buy them online.
Afternoon With the Wildlife
Indulge in a momentary pause from your fishing adventures and witness the incredible sight of Grizzly Bears and Eagles delighting in the abundance of salmon during the fall spawning season. For a safe and unforgettable experience, head to the Sugarloaf Bridge, where you can observe the captivating circle of life.
Delve into the natural wonders of the Zeballos River estuary, a designated Wetland Reserve recognized by the Ministry of the Environment and the Nature Trust of BC. Take leisurely strolls along the picturesque trails or the charming boardwalk, and be treated to enchanting encounters with majestic kingfishers, woodpeckers, great blue herons, and occasionally, the graceful red-tailed hawk.
Important Considerations
TRANSPORTATION
DRIVE
Zeballos is located about 191 kilometres from Campbell River. Follow highway 19 north until you get to the Zeballos Junction at the 321 route marker. The road is unpaved and is an active logging road.
BY WATER
Zeballos Expeditions provides water taxi service and kayak shuttles from Zeballos to all outlying areas including Tahsis, Esperanza, Nuchatlitz Park, Port Eliza, Friendly Cove, and Louie Bay.
DID YOU KNOW?
Zeballos Inlet sits on the territory of the Ehattesaht First Nation. The Nuu-Chah-Nulth language they speak is in danger of extinction and the Ehattesaht Music Group works to bring awareness to common phrases elders would often use.
Nuu-Chah-Nulth translates to “all along the mountains and the sea.”
Fun Fact
Nearly 5,000 people lived in Zeballos during a gold rush that started in the late 1930’s.
Highlighted Local Providers
Cedars Inn
Amazing views await at this historic building and the on-site cottages. Plus it has a restaurant with hearty seafood and pasta dishes.
Harbour Cottage
This correct has two bedrooms and sleeps four comfortably. It’s a quick walk from the government wharf.
Reel Obsession Sport Fishing Lodge
Hotel-style rooms are available from September 1- May 30th at this lodge that focuses on guided fishing trips and gourmet meals for the rest of the year. Check out their site for fishing packages and availability.
Zeballos Oceanfront Lodge & Marina
Three buildings here offer 11 private guest rooms and suites that cater to those looking for adventure or relaxation.
Zeballos RV Park
This first come first served park is operated by the village and provides space for 20 self-contained RVs. They don’t have showers but coin-operated showers are available at the marina.
Cevallos Campsite
Just outside town on the Zeballos River, this site has 10 campsites, outhouses, fire puts, central water, and free firewood.
Fair Harbour Campground
Located 34 kilometres from Zeballos, this campsite is close to the dock at Fair Harbour on Kyuquot Sound.
Other Campsites
Smaller campsites like Atluck Lake and Resolution Recreation Camp Site also have great views.
